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Afghan Cultural Centers

One hot afternoon in Pakistan, I was looking for a Public Call Office (PCO) to make a telephone call. PCOs are usually one-desk offices with a telephone and an operator, whose job is to dial your number and listen to your conversation. They charge 5 rupees per local call. While searching for a PCO, I was delighted to see the sign "Afghan Cultural Saloon" surrounded by numerous signs for sale of furniture, videocassettes, etc. All of a sudden it occurred to me that the Afghan Cultural Saloon may be a treasure mine. I decided to go inside the Saloon. My entrance woke up the owner from his afternoon nap. The Saloon was a long triangular shaped room filled with Afghan paintings, posters, postcards, books and the owner’s personal collection of classic audio tapes. As I was looking at the posters, the owner played an old tape of Ustad Natoo, which confirmed my hunch that I had accidentally come upon a genuine Afghan art and music store.

At the Saloon, I learned about a music school next door. Upon visiting the music store, I met a person who spent his evenings drinking tea at various Afghan cultural centers. I was more than happy to spend an evening with him. The cultural centers he would visit

included the Afghan French Alliance Center, the Irfan publication office or the Ghourbat Theater, housed in a backroom of the Irfan office. Please see the pictures below.